What To Expect When Introducing a Kitten to An Older Cat

Many of us experience the joy of having a cat in our lives. As they get older, though, they tend to slow down; they're less of the rambunctious and perky felines we're used to and start to be more sedate, calm cats.

There's nothing wrong with this, of course. All of us settle down as we age. But it's fairly common for cat parents to miss that adorable flurry of activity that comes with a kitten. And sometimes, if the opportunity arises, we think, why not? Why not get a new kitten to add to our family?

There's just one hurdle to overcome, and that's introducing a new kitten to your older cat. Unfortunately, it doesn't always go smoothly. So, what can you expect when bringing a new kitten to your household with an established older cat, and how can you make sure things go as smoothly as possible?

What to Expect When Introducing a Kitten to an Older Cat

Cats are surprisingly territorial creatures. We tend to think of dogs as the territorial house pets who leap to the door in defense against intruders like the mailman or a passing squirrel and who chuff a warning when anything outside gets too close.

Cats are just as territorial, but they're a little less outwardly defensive. They like to stake their claims, and when a cat has the run of the house, that house is their territory. They're comfortable, they feel safe, and they know how life works in their domain.

When a new creature is added to the household – whether it's a child, a kitten, a dog, or something else entirely – your older cat will feel the pressure. It's an invasion of their territory, and it's something that disrupts their equilibrium and their calmer lifestyle.

It's important to recognize that your older cat may not like this disruption. Different cats have different personalities, and some will take to a new addition quickly, while others are much more reticent.

It's also impossible to know without prior experience which your cat will be. I've seen notoriously anti-social cats nearly immediately adopt a kitten as their own, and I've seen outwardly friendly cats who want nothing to do with a kitten.

That said, you might be able to have some idea based on where your cat came from and what background they have. If your older cat tends to hide from strangers and hates a disruption in their daily routine, they'll have a harder time accepting a new kitten. If they were formerly a stray or feral or were just poorly socialized in their youth, they'll also be more likely to be defensive of what they have.

On the other hand, cats that were well socialized, that have grown up with fosters or around a rotating cast of cats and people, or that are generally social with animals and gregarious with people might be better at accepting a new kitten.

These are just guesses, though. You'll never know whether your older cat will accept a new kitten until you try.

Special note: don't give up too quickly! Introducing a kitten to an older cat can be a lengthy process that can take weeks, and if you rush it, it's more likely to go wrong. Let the cats take it at their pace, and be patient. I've seen way too many people give up and return a newly adopted kitten after just a few days, which is terrible for everyone involved.

If all goes well, your kitten and your older cat will bond and become fast friends. If not, they might have more of a sibling relationship; they quarrel and have to establish their territories, but they can still live together. It's relatively rare – though not impossible – that they just can't get along.

What Do You Need to Introduce a Kitten to an Older Cat?

Before you go out to the local shelter to adopt a kitten, you need to set the stage at home. What do you need to help ensure that your new kitten is introduced properly?

Duplicate Cat Supplies

First up, you'll want a duplicate set of all of the basic cat supplies you'll need. Even friendly cats often don't want to share their food or their litter box. It's generally recommended to have one food bowl for each cat in a household and one litter box for each, plus one additional box as a backup. Simple items like cat beds and toys should also be duplicated so your kitten will have their own.

Other cat items, like scratching posts, are also good to have around. Scratching isn't just to expend energy and sharpen claws; it's to mark territory using those scratches, as well as scent glands in their paws. If the two are competing to mark one pole, they'll either fight over it, or one will turn to marking other things, like your furniture.

A Closeable Room

One of the most important tools at your disposal for introducing a new kitten is a room where the kitten can be closed off and safe. Most people choose to use a bathroom for this, but a spare bedroom, a large enough closet, or a laundry room can all work. Just make sure the door is able to close fully without leaving a gap that your cat can look under.

I'll go into more in a later section, but the main purpose of this is to help get your cats used to each other through sound and smell before they see each other. It's a way to familiarize them with each other in small doses, where they can't get off on the wrong foot.

You generally want to pick a smaller room, and preferably one that your older cat doesn't use much. If you usually keep your older cat's litter box in the bathroom, don't designate the bathroom as your kitten room; it feels even more like a hostile takeover that way.

Hand Towels and a Baby Gate

These are two critical supplies. You'll probably have towels or washcloths around that you can use – and in the absence of either, a shirt or other bit of fabric will do. A baby gate, though, you might not have on hand.

Fortunately, depending on where you buy one from, you can often return it when you're done since you won't need it for too long. Alternatively, see if any of your friends with children have an old gate you can borrow.

Optional: Cat Pheromones

Pheromones are natural hormones everyone produces. Cats produce them for a variety of reasons, and people have found ways to package and use them. The most common use case for cat pheromones is as a calming agent. Whether you buy a spray bottle or a diffuser, you can use this in the days leading up to when you bring your kitten home to help accentuate your older cat's sense of calm and well-being.

Pheromones are optional because some cats won't need them, and some cats can even react badly to them. Also, if your cat has enough stress and anxiety for other reasons, pheromones won't be able to fully counteract it, so it won't help all that much. Remember, they're a small assistant tool, not a solution to major problems.

Note that you should not use medications to try to calm your cat. Drugging your cat while introducing a kitten isn't going to work out well for anyone.

The Process for Introducing a Kitten to an Older Cat

Now that you've laid the groundwork, it's time to get started with the introductions. Well, almost. You still have a little bit to do.

Make Sure Your Older Cat is Healthy

This is a simple one, but just take your older cat to the vet a week or two before you start the introduction process. You want to make sure your older cat is healthy and that they don't have any current sources of pain or anxiety that will further stress them out. It's also a good time to make sure vaccinations are up to date.

Note: It's also a good idea to know the FeLV and FIV status of both your older cat and your incoming kitten so you can take any additional steps as necessary. Talk to your vet about it if necessary.

Now, your stage is set, and it's time to go get the kitten.

Day One Introductions

When you bring your new kitten home, do so in a carrier, and simply put the carrier down and let your older cat investigate. They'll immediately show some kind of reaction, whether it's curiosity, standoffishness, or an immediate dislike. This helps you determine what the process will be like and how long it will take.

Once this is done, bring the kitten – still in their carrier – to your kitten room. Release them and sit with them to get them used to the room, show them where things like their litter box and food are, and help them feel more comfortable in their new space.

Week One Acclimation

For around a week, you'll be keeping your new kitten isolated in this room. Your two cats will be able to smell and hear each other but not see each other. This prevents miscommunications and disconnects from body language and helps them both be aware there's another cat in the home.

Chances are good that your older cat will get curious and will start to watch, listen, or even paw at the door where the kitten is hiding. Don't take this as a sure sign that they're ready to interact, though.

During this time, don't forget to spend plenty of time and love with your older cat so they don't feel replaced or neglected because of the newcomer. They'll also have the scent of the kitten on you to contend with, which can help associate that scent with positive interactions.

This is also where the towels come in. Rub each cat with a towel, and then swap the towels and leave them in each other's spaces. It's further spreading the scent in an inoffensive way.

If the cats tend to stay away from the door out of anxiety for one another, you can help bridge that gap by feeding them on opposite sides of the door when it's closed. You can supervise this, and when they do any interaction that is positive, you can reward it with additional treats.

Opening the Door

The next step is the face-to-face introduction, and this is where the baby gate comes in. Yes, cats are going to have no trouble jumping over a baby gate, but the goal is not to prevent that; it's just to provide some small barrier against direct tussling.

Chances are, they'll be curious and hopefully not immediately hostile to one another. They're putting faces to the scents and sounds they've gotten used to. Let them sniff and watch each other, and reward their good behavior with treats.

From here, it's only a short hop to removing the gate and letting the kitten roam.

Boundaries and Budding Friendships

Once your cats are acclimated enough that you can let the kitten out of the kitten room, you just need to keep an eye on both and see how they interact.

Here are some things to watch for and what to do if you see them, as well as a few additional tips:

• Don't immediately go put the litter boxes and food dishes side by side. This can feel like a big enough jump to "invasion of territory" that it can lead to bullying one cat or the other out of their access.

• Don't worry too much about a little hissing or even small bats and swats at the kitten. Your older cat will want to set boundaries and define the relationship. If they get into actual fights or constant yowling stand-offs, you may need to backtrack to keeping them separate for longer.

• Start to build collaborative playtime. Playing with both cats at the same time, in the same space, can distract them from their enmity and put them onto social activities they can do together.

• Watch for warning signs of over-stressed cats, like spraying or inappropriate urination, excessive vocalization, or stress grooming. These might warrant a vet consultation or a visit with a cat behaviorist.

Fortunately, it's generally rare that your older cat absolutely refuses to get along with a new kitten. If that happens, you may need to return the kitten, but make sure to give it time and be patient.

If all goes well, your cats will fall in sync and start to either tolerate or enjoy each other's company.

Do you have any questions? If so, I'm always more than happy to help however I can! Just leave me a comment down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!